A sign hanging in my dentist's office says: "You only need to floss the teeth you want to keep." You could apply that same philosophy just about anywhere common sense rules. Take climbing for example. Say the word helmet and the responses elicited range from rolling the eyes to serious acknowledgment of their value. So, it might be fair to state that: "You only need to wear a helmet if you feel you have a brain worth saving."

WEARING A HELMET-- Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, "Keelhaul Wall"-- 3rd pitch of a lead climb rated 5.5. Laura (experienced on 5.7) fell 15-meters when a handhold broke off. Her injuries were decidedly less severe because she was wearing a helmet which protected her head and back on impact. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

It appears to make great sense to wear a helmet when climbing. After all, rocks are hard, heads are not and accidents can and do happen with no deference to experience. So, why are the majority of helmets sold only to ice climbers, mountaineers, outfitters and schools, and a decidedly limited number of rock climbers? In a word, perception. The vast majority of climbers perceive that they are not at risk.

"I would say that 95 percent of ice climbers wear helmet because there is a 100-percent chance you are going to get hit on the head while climbing or belaying," says Rick Wilcox of International Mountain Equipment (IME). On big wall climb and on mixed routes when mountaineering, where you are a long way from rescue, I would say that 50-percent are wearing a helmet, with those wearing the helmet doing so because the risk of falling rock or head injuries from falling is high. At climbing areas where you are placing your own protection and at risk of long leader falls or from rocks knocked loose by tourists or other climbers, it is wise to wear a helmet too, although I would say the majority do not."

Wilcox and every climber I spoke with acknowledged that schools and outfitters require students to wear helmets simply because insurance policies mandate it and, in the case of certification, the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) requires it. It is intriguing to note, however, that in these same instances, a great number of instructors do not wear helmets, even while teaching a class full of students who are.

At Rainier Mountaineering (RMI), Lou Whittaker states that they started requiring their clients to wear helmets because of liability concerns many years ago. Most of the guides / instructors, including Whittaker, elect not to wear the "brain buckets." Whittaker reasons that his guides have climbed for years and can rely on experience for protection, that hearing and visibility are not as good with a helmet on, and that with the changing weather it is a pain and oftentimes dangerous to have to keep taking a helmet on and off. He also cites the increased bulk and the fact that with insulation layers in place and the helmet on, his guides would find it hard to hear rock falls, ice falls and avalanches. Valid points all, but one does have to wonder what example that sets for the many "inexperienced" mountaineers taking RMI courses. Is there an implication that as soon as one is experienced, they don't need a helmet anymore?

NO HELMET-- Washington, Mount Stuart-- During a voluntary sitting glissade by an experienced mountaineer on one of the least difficult routes on the mountain, one mountaineer lost control of his ice ax, lost his ability to control his speed and slid into rocks. Impact broke his collarbone and several ribs and he sustained severe head injuries. His subsequent death would likely have been prevented had he been wearing a helmet. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

According to Dan Braun of Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides: "I believe a climber needs to wear a helmet both from a safety standpoint and a role model standpoint. All of our guides wear helmets when they are with their clients and the majority do when they are not. I for one, wear a helmet 100-percent of the time, no matter how low the perceived risk simply because you can never know for sure."

And so we come back to perceived risk and the issue of role models. George Bracksieck, publisher of Rock & Ice wears a helmet 100-percent of the time when climbing and believes strongly enough about helmets that his magazine has run numerous advocacy articles for the use of helmets when climbing. Although Bracksieck stops short of requiring that photos in his magazine always be of climbers wearing helmets-to do so would be editorial suicide-he has implemented a unique policy that pays photographers an extra fee per photo if a helmet is used.

What of the arguments offered by climbers debunking the need for helmets? Let's look at each, one by one:

I always climb in an area that I know is clean and has no rockfall.

OK, but don't rocks fracture, crack, crumble or otherwise break apart as a natural course of aging and weathering? Are you saying you can always predict what nature has in mind? "Whether or not you decide to wear a helmet is a very personal choice. But don't be ignorant," says Tony Calderone, a Utah-based guide writing for the Sept / Oct 1996 issue of Rock & Ice. "If you decide not to wear a helmet because your climbing area has no rockfall, you could be in for a rude awakening."

"No matter how well bolted and clean a climb is and has a reputation for being, nothing is ever sure. It's foolish to think otherwise," says Braun. "Can anyone really guarantee that a rock that looks solid will never break loose?"

NO HELMETS-- Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park and Peninsula State Park-- The park service reports that four serious head injuries occurred at popular climbing areas as a result of not wearing a helmet. --Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

I don't climb on anything extreme enough to get really hurt on.

Heck, you can get hurt just by falling backwards while standing on a flat rock surface. Again, according to Calderone in the Rock & Ice issue referenced above: "Most climbers are oblivious to the potential for head injuries on any climb. Falling on a slab climb can be very dangerous (for example). I've broken two helmets, suffered whiplash and backaches, shredded dozens of pairs of Lycra pants and lost enough skin to upholster a couch."

NO HELMET -- Utah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood Canyon-- Karen Wilson, a student in an organized climbing course, took an unroped fall of eight feet after climbing up a rock buttress to observe other students climbing. She had removed her climbing harness and helmet since she had finished her turn on the wall. The school had reminded all students to always wear their protective gear. Her head injury would have been prevented had she been wearing her helmet. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

A helmet is of little use in a fall since it is only designed to absorb impacts from above.

In fact, Duane Raleigh, an editor of Climbing magazine asserts that the numbers do not add up to convince him climbing helmets really make a difference in most cases. That to me is a bit like saying the numbers do not add up sufficiently to convince you to wear a seatbelt. All it takes is one rock, one head. While I agree with Raleigh that a helmet is no guarantee of safety, the numbers published by the annual Accidents in North American Mountaineering say that head injuries are the leading cause of climbing fatalities. Look closely at the accident reports and it's hard to dispute the assertion that helmets DO make a difference.

NO HELMET-- California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, "Salathe Wall"-- Brian Biega, leading the 6th pitch was "French Freeing" (grabbing fixed pieces as handholds) when he fell. His belayer saw the rope catch the back of his leg and flip him over. Biega fell backwards, striking his head before stopping after a fall of 20 feet. He was knocked unconscious and had to be lowered off. A helmet would have prevented head injury. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

A helmet is uncomfortable.

OK, I'll buy that one inasmuch as a helmet is not as comfortable as letting the air blow freely through your hair while climbing. However, climbing shoes aren't exactly the paragon of comfort either, and yet most climbers eagerly put those on their feet. Helmets fit better than ever before and are far easier to adjust too. Is comfort really the issue here? I don't think so.

NO HELMET-- Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Haddo-- Three climbers, descending after a successful summit on a relatively routine snow field within a gully slipped. The first climber to slip, who was the one to knock the others off of their feet, hit his head and suffered injury. The others were not injured. All had removed their helmets for the descent. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

A helmet adds too much extra weight and its way too hot.

I've spent the last week interviewing climbing helmet manufacturers and distributors and most of the helmets being manufactured today weigh mere ounces-a lot less than the typical rock that could be falling towards your head like a heat-seeking missile. As for hot, that seems to be a matter of false perception. In actual fact, according to Hank Moon at Petzl, John Lamb at Advanced Base Camp, John Evans at Climb High and Cort Hansen at Ragged Mountain Equipment (all top climbing equipment retailers and wholesalers), today's helmet designs are far better ventilated than before and, especially with the lighter colors, actually serve to shade the head under a hot sun.

NO HELMET-- Ontario, Milton, Kelson Conservation Area, "Jolly Rodger" Route-- One climber, after declining a safety belay from his partner, attempted a rappel down the route, but made an error and did not clip in properly. He fell 20-meters. Other climbers at the site offered assistance, but he died at the hospital. It was determined that a helmet would probably have saved his life. --Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

I look like a GEEK!.

Now we're getting somewhere. Expert climbers state that the number one reason not to wear a helmet is peer pressure and the geek factor. "If all the star climbers are not wearing helmets, then how can anyone imagine that fledgling climbers looking up at these stars, seeing their photos flashing routes in magazines, will want to wear one," say the experts.

"Because of the long-standing tradition of flashy magazine photos showing flashy climbers on spectacularly difficult climbs wearing nothing but nylon short and shoes, it's hard to make a solid case for the helmet," adds Hansen. Bracksieck agrees, but adds that it will take the top climbers being willing to wear helmets, and he doesn't see that happening unless there's sponsorship money in it for them.

NO HELMET-- New Hampshire, Cannon Cliffs, Slip O' Fools-- Lori Gelsomini (who was wearing a helmet) was belaying her husband Dan (who was not wearing a helmet) and had just unclipped following his call that "I'm off" when she saw him falling with a number of rocks. She was able to grab the rope and arrest his fall, receiving second degree burns to her arms and hands. Dan received two skull fractures and his brain swelled and bruised to such an extent he lost a small part of his frontal lobe. Gelsomini wrote in the accident report: "Always wear a helmet! It may not be the cool thing to do, but it can save your life." It appears as if Dan was knocked off and out by rocks kicked down by others above him. -- Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 1996

Sally Moser, the former executive director for the Access Fund echoes the official position for numerous experienced climbers these days when she states: "I think everyone should wear a helmet. That said, if you ask me if I wear a helmet all the time, my answer is no. I wear a helmet when I feel the objective hazards warrant it. I guess I believe I am in control to a great degree." Maybe Sally, but control is a fleeting beast. Is driving a safe endeavor? Sure it is, in a relative sense, but we still wear seatbelts. Why? Because you never do know, do you?

What will it take for helmets to become en vogue? Like in the bicycling and whitewater kayaking communities, it will take the flashy athletes, the leaders, the industry to get behind a push to make helmets cool. It will also take a retailing attitude-change from the selling of helmets as an accessory to the selling of helmets as a necessity. And, finally, a responsibility rests upon each of us who climb. Next time you go climbing, think about it. If not for your own safety, then wear a helmet perhaps for the example it will set for some other young or beginning climber who could learn from your example. Who knows, you may be saving a life.